July 16-18th
I'm going to try this a little differently, and incorporate the images into my writing, rather than so separated... Hopefully it will look a little more cohesive. Okay.
So, Florence... is amazing! It was almost Redding-hot, getting up to the high 90's both Thursday and Friday (mind you, no air-conditioning at all) but it was still so wonderful, we just made sure to take our afternoon siestas. There is no way to sum up all that happened, or to show all the pictures (I took almost 900 pictures in 5 days) so I'm separating Florence and Venice to make it more feasible.
After a quite sleepless night (I don't know why I worry so much) we headed out early to our train. We had to get there especially early because we had to validate our Eurail passes, and the line was long. The train was lovely, though, and the 1.5 hour trip flew by, watching the landscape change around us. After orientating ourselves at the train station, we set out for our hostel, and I really wished my duffel bag had wheels (or that I was capable of packing light). However, I got a good feel of the city after passing amazing store after store. I knew I was in trouble - or at least my wallet.
We first went to the Ponte Vecchio, an old bridge that is lined with shops and apartments (topped with a secret pathway for the Medici Family to get to the Uffizi Gallery Building) specializing in jewelry. I was so tempted, but it was quite an expensive arrangement of jewelry, sorry Mom.
Left: Sitting on Arno River edge in front of Ponte Vecchio. So hot!
The best part about the Ponte Vecchio was its view of the river. But you had to be a quick clicker, because there was people everywhere! Most of them just browsing the beautiful (and shiny) window displays, and getting in the way. It's amazing how different this waterway is from the Tiber in Rome, because it is higher up, closer to the street level. Also, there are not trees lining the edge, so you get the architecture reflected in the water... amazing!
Left: Arno River view from Ponte Vecchio
After crossing the river, we headed up the south hill - just to check stuff out. The higher we went, the more we could see (through the slits between buildings) and this was my first view of the Duomo. Okay, so I first saw it when we were heading from the train station to our hostel, but I was carrying my bags and I couldn't take a picture... drat. There are not that many domes in Florence (especially compared to Rome) so the Duomo really stands out in the skyline.
Once we reached the top of the hill at this large garden, we were all too exhausted and heat-striken to do anything, so we went back to our hostel for a siesta. It turned into a three-hour siesta... but when it is 99 degrees outside, there's not much you can do.
Left: Duomo! (Santa Maria del Fiore)
After nap-time, we set out for gelato, then took a little sketchy-sketch time on one of Florence's many bridges to wait out the sunset. It was amazing. We were one bridge over from the Ponte Vecchio (where everyone else was congregated) so we got a view of that piece of architecture in the setting sun. Not a bad location. I just about finished my sketch before the sun set (which means darkness, apparently).Left: Sketching the Ponte Vecchio as the sun sets.
Not a bad view, eh? Probably has the Pacific Ocean beat in terms of sunset-intensity... but only slightly! I really liked the rafts floating down the river... if anyone had a better view of the sunset than us, it was them.
After darkness came, we set out for a late dinner at a Richard-recommended place which was... okay. We spent our late night at the Space Disco Electronica, a dance club that was a bit underpopulated. They should have been paying us for the entry fee, bringing in a group of nine good dancers... I met this funny Asian from Denmark who I danced with. He wanted to clarify that he was just there for fun... and I was just fine with that.
Left: Sunset on the River Arno
After darkness came, we set out for a late dinner at a Richard-recommended place which was... okay. We spent our late night at the Space Disco Electronica, a dance club that was a bit underpopulated. They should have been paying us for the entry fee, bringing in a group of nine good dancers... I met this funny Asian from Denmark who I danced with. He wanted to clarify that he was just there for fun... and I was just fine with that.
Left: Sunset on the River Arno
We rose far too early on Friday morning to hike the Duomo. We were bracing ourself for the heat of the afternoon by hitting the major stops before lunch. The actual dome of the Basilica was designed by Brunelleschi, and it was the largest dome in the world since the Pantheon, built nearly 1500 years before. It was 461 steps to the top, through winding, narrow staircases - not good for a claustrophobic. The most interesting part of the climb was at the dome itself, where the stair runs up the side of the dome, with really steep stairs at the bottom, getting more gradual as you go up.
Left: Duomo in early sunlight
Before ascending up the final part of the dome, you enter out over the interior of the dome. You get a good view down on the little ants below, and of course up into the dome's frescoes. I couldn't believe how big all the characters were... being so up close to them. They were quite gruesome, with the closest people acting as demons from hell... yikes. But above that, it was much more pleasant, that is, if I could handle looking up.
Left: Springing point of the dome interior (Duomo)
We've reached the top! It was rough, but I actually looked down over the edge of the precarious railing... and it was quite the sight. The world below looked like some sort of playground for micro-machines, not the town of Florence that I had just walked through.
Left: looking down from the top: the curve of the dome (Duomo)
That's better. It's is much easier to look out than down (or even worse, looking up at the spire). I got a bit of sketching time of the surrounding hills, but it was heating up quickly, with very little shade (at 9:30 in the morning!) so we set out back down.
Left: Me grasping tightly to the railing at the edge of the platform, with views of more "modern" Florence behind.
Sorry it's a bit blurry, but this is the interior of the Basilica. We actually came here later in the afternoon (when the line was shorter) after our shorter siesta, but I wanted to put this with the other Duomo pictures. There is very little adornment in this space (very unlike the many Baroque churches in Rome) and I think I like this mix of Gothic & Renaissance. I guess that's what happens when you are the birthplace of the Renaissance: some of the old traditions carry through. Like, for example, the pointed arches, clustered columns, and stained glass. The floor was a really interesting mosaic as well.
Left: Interior of the Duomo Basilica
After hiking the Duomo, and losing the rest of our group, we searched for the Laurentian Library (and its grand stair entry), which wasn't in any guidebook or map we had. For a well-known space designed by Michelangelo in the late Renaissance, you would think it would be easy to find, but this is Florence, where there is priceless art & architecture around every corner... We did find San Lorenzo Basilica, and figured that it would be a good start, and it turns out, that was it! Next to the Basilica is a courtyard/cloister with the Laurentian Library upstairs (then up more stairs). I guess they are normally pretty restrictive of pictures, but I got a nice lady or something, so I got a few good ones. I remembered studying this small space because this is when Michelangelo starts to do some crazy things. Like oval steps, pilasters that get narrower at the bottom, and corbels that support nothing. A strange guy.
We found a nice place for lunch. It was a cafeteria-style place, where you pick your choice from a line, then pay per plate. The best part was it was air-conditioned! Oh yeah, and I had a view of the Duomo out the window.
I don't have a picture for proof, but Florence was a shopper's paradise. I guess the Ponte Vecchio is one clue. Our hostel was unfortunately close to Piazza Nuova, where they have a daily market dedicated to leather goods. It all started with a beautiful green leather purse... and it all went downhill from there. Okay, so it wasn't that bad... but I found some great things. Perhaps I will put in some pictures of my new possessions.
That night we went out for what was probably the best meal I've had in Italy. It was a little family-run restaurant in the northern part of town and it was delicioso! I had my first taste of bruschetta (yum) and seafood! I thought I would be adventurous (and the waiter recommended it) so I ordered the seafood pasta. I was a little worried when it came out: a nice plate of linguini covered in mussels and clams. Yikes. But once I got over the texture (it helps if you slurp them out of the shell, rather than trying to chew) the flavor was amazing. And the little dining room was cozy!
Left: my plate of sea creatures (some of the shells still had to be broken open)
For our last morning in Florence (we had train at 11:30) Amy and I planned on finding a good place to sketch the Duomo. However, as we were walking around at 7:30 in the morning, it was quite empty, even in front of the Uffizi Gallery. Shocking. So we had this crazy idea to get in line for the daily admission. However, I really wanted to go up to the Piazza Michelangiolo, which has some of the best views of the city. So Amy graciously waited in line while I ran (literally) to the top of this piazza - and there were a lot of stairs). But I made it in time to take some impressive pictures (in my opinion) that I can hopefully sketch in the future.
Left: at the Piazza Michelangiolo overlooking the city. Classic Florence.
So after my dash up the hill, I get back at 8:05, just before they open at 8:15, and we are just about the second group in line. The excitement builds, but I don't want to get my hopes up. After all, according to Richard, you need reservations months in advance to get inside this place. Well we proved him wrong! Even on a Saturday morning, you can get inside. I felt like I was part of a special club or something as we passed through the doors and entered one of the best art galleries in the world...
Left: entry to Uffizi Gallery
Unfortunately, we were scheduled to check out of our hostel at 10:00 am, which means we had just under two hours to see a very large gallery. We felt rushed, but we still got a good overview of the rooms, while spending a bit more time at specific famous works of Caravaggio, etc.
Left: covert picture of the gallery corridor which is not technically allowed. You notice the guidebook in my hand, obscuring the left part of the picture... there was a guard coming up behind me, so this was taken at waist-height. You can see ancient sculptures all along the walls.
The last "room" we saw in the Uffizi was an outdoor terrace that had a spectacular view of the Duomo. It was a nice farewell point of the beautiful city before we had to dash out of the gallery and grab our bags and head to the train. I was greatly impressed by Florence (despite the heat and the mobs of tourist groups). We didn't see the David, but perhaps on my trip back...
Left: Duomo view from the Uffizi terrace
Left: Duomo in early sunlight
Before ascending up the final part of the dome, you enter out over the interior of the dome. You get a good view down on the little ants below, and of course up into the dome's frescoes. I couldn't believe how big all the characters were... being so up close to them. They were quite gruesome, with the closest people acting as demons from hell... yikes. But above that, it was much more pleasant, that is, if I could handle looking up.Left: Springing point of the dome interior (Duomo)
We've reached the top! It was rough, but I actually looked down over the edge of the precarious railing... and it was quite the sight. The world below looked like some sort of playground for micro-machines, not the town of Florence that I had just walked through.Left: looking down from the top: the curve of the dome (Duomo)
That's better. It's is much easier to look out than down (or even worse, looking up at the spire). I got a bit of sketching time of the surrounding hills, but it was heating up quickly, with very little shade (at 9:30 in the morning!) so we set out back down.Left: Me grasping tightly to the railing at the edge of the platform, with views of more "modern" Florence behind.
Sorry it's a bit blurry, but this is the interior of the Basilica. We actually came here later in the afternoon (when the line was shorter) after our shorter siesta, but I wanted to put this with the other Duomo pictures. There is very little adornment in this space (very unlike the many Baroque churches in Rome) and I think I like this mix of Gothic & Renaissance. I guess that's what happens when you are the birthplace of the Renaissance: some of the old traditions carry through. Like, for example, the pointed arches, clustered columns, and stained glass. The floor was a really interesting mosaic as well.Left: Interior of the Duomo Basilica
After hiking the Duomo, and losing the rest of our group, we searched for the Laurentian Library (and its grand stair entry), which wasn't in any guidebook or map we had. For a well-known space designed by Michelangelo in the late Renaissance, you would think it would be easy to find, but this is Florence, where there is priceless art & architecture around every corner... We did find San Lorenzo Basilica, and figured that it would be a good start, and it turns out, that was it! Next to the Basilica is a courtyard/cloister with the Laurentian Library upstairs (then up more stairs). I guess they are normally pretty restrictive of pictures, but I got a nice lady or something, so I got a few good ones. I remembered studying this small space because this is when Michelangelo starts to do some crazy things. Like oval steps, pilasters that get narrower at the bottom, and corbels that support nothing. A strange guy.We found a nice place for lunch. It was a cafeteria-style place, where you pick your choice from a line, then pay per plate. The best part was it was air-conditioned! Oh yeah, and I had a view of the Duomo out the window.
I don't have a picture for proof, but Florence was a shopper's paradise. I guess the Ponte Vecchio is one clue. Our hostel was unfortunately close to Piazza Nuova, where they have a daily market dedicated to leather goods. It all started with a beautiful green leather purse... and it all went downhill from there. Okay, so it wasn't that bad... but I found some great things. Perhaps I will put in some pictures of my new possessions.
That night we went out for what was probably the best meal I've had in Italy. It was a little family-run restaurant in the northern part of town and it was delicioso! I had my first taste of bruschetta (yum) and seafood! I thought I would be adventurous (and the waiter recommended it) so I ordered the seafood pasta. I was a little worried when it came out: a nice plate of linguini covered in mussels and clams. Yikes. But once I got over the texture (it helps if you slurp them out of the shell, rather than trying to chew) the flavor was amazing. And the little dining room was cozy!Left: my plate of sea creatures (some of the shells still had to be broken open)
For our last morning in Florence (we had train at 11:30) Amy and I planned on finding a good place to sketch the Duomo. However, as we were walking around at 7:30 in the morning, it was quite empty, even in front of the Uffizi Gallery. Shocking. So we had this crazy idea to get in line for the daily admission. However, I really wanted to go up to the Piazza Michelangiolo, which has some of the best views of the city. So Amy graciously waited in line while I ran (literally) to the top of this piazza - and there were a lot of stairs). But I made it in time to take some impressive pictures (in my opinion) that I can hopefully sketch in the future.Left: at the Piazza Michelangiolo overlooking the city. Classic Florence.
So after my dash up the hill, I get back at 8:05, just before they open at 8:15, and we are just about the second group in line. The excitement builds, but I don't want to get my hopes up. After all, according to Richard, you need reservations months in advance to get inside this place. Well we proved him wrong! Even on a Saturday morning, you can get inside. I felt like I was part of a special club or something as we passed through the doors and entered one of the best art galleries in the world...Left: entry to Uffizi Gallery
Unfortunately, we were scheduled to check out of our hostel at 10:00 am, which means we had just under two hours to see a very large gallery. We felt rushed, but we still got a good overview of the rooms, while spending a bit more time at specific famous works of Caravaggio, etc.Left: covert picture of the gallery corridor which is not technically allowed. You notice the guidebook in my hand, obscuring the left part of the picture... there was a guard coming up behind me, so this was taken at waist-height. You can see ancient sculptures all along the walls.
The last "room" we saw in the Uffizi was an outdoor terrace that had a spectacular view of the Duomo. It was a nice farewell point of the beautiful city before we had to dash out of the gallery and grab our bags and head to the train. I was greatly impressed by Florence (despite the heat and the mobs of tourist groups). We didn't see the David, but perhaps on my trip back...Left: Duomo view from the Uffizi terrace
2 comments:
It looks like a wonderful weekend. You're not really supposed to eat the mussels that don't open up on their own when you cook them. So do they pronounce it brew-sket-ta or brew-shet-ta there? I think it's the former but almost everyone in the US says the later.
I started pronouncing it brew-shet-ta, but then I realized it is really brew-sket-ta. Oops! It's pretty often that the US pronunciation is a little off.
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